Paso Robles: Making its Way East

w/Stacie Jacobs, Exec. Dir. Paso Robles Wine Alliance

The wine trade was invited  to attend Paso Robles’ Grand Tasting event yesterday at the Gallery in Chicago.  For those of you not familiar with the latest facts, allow me to update you.  The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance is the marketing and promotional arm of the wine region, boasts 500 members which include growers, wineries, and related associate businesses. The economic impact of Pasao Robles and the Greater San Luis Obispo Wine region is calculated at $1,785 billion!

As California’s fastest growing wine region and largest appellation in San Luis Obispo County, the territory encompasses more than 26,000 vineyard acres and more than 180 wineries.  More than 40 cultivars are grown and the regions claims to have the widest ranging diurnal temperatures in California which translates to optimal growing conditions for vines and the resultant fruit.  Part of this is due to the proximity of some vineyards to the ocean (6 miles in some cases). Just passed the Santa Lucia mountain range,  there is fog which blankets certain areas, but it is not as dense and dissipates much earlier in the day than its neighbors to the north.  Elevations of vineyards range from 700-2,000 feet and due to its unique geological makeup, 45 different soil types have been identified several of which may be found in one vineyard block.  Bedrock primarily derived from weathered granite, older marine sedimentary rocks, and volcanic rocks trace back to the Miocene Age.  Calcareous soils with high soil pH values make some vineyards possible without irrigation.

If you’re in the mood for Bordeaux, Rhone and Zinfandel blends, then Paso wines are a must.  Less attention has been given to the whites, but I was pleasantly surprised by some innovative blends.  Among them was the 2009 Vina Robles WHITE4, Huerhuero Vineyard, a blend of 42% Vermentino, 29% Verdelho, 26% Viognier and 3% Sauvignon Blanc; veritable Spring in a glass.  The delicate white flower aromas from the Viognier were surrounded by the strength of Sauvignon Blanc; a wonderful aromatic, fresh wine with good acid.  The 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Niner Wine Estates (2009) was another pleasurable experience with its refreshing peach and grapefruit aromas, and I especially liked the smooth lushness of its mid-palate.

Joseph Spellman MS, Justin's Midwest Regional Sales Manager

Derby Wine Estates, a winery unknown to me before this tasting, produced some very interesting wines including its 2007 Fifteen 10, a white Rhone blend which was very clean with subtle aromas of white pepper, gardenia and a tangy lemon zest on the finish.  Also noteworthy was the 2006 Fifteen 10, a red Rhone blend and the 2006 Implico, their Bordeaux blend which was fruit forward but well-balanced.

Other wines of note included Stanger Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, a fleshy wine dominated by dark fruit aromas and flavors, and my favorite of the day was Justin Vineyards’ 2008 JUSTIFICATION, a blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot.  A wine with 14.5% alcohol, it was blessed with a rich ruby color, rich dark fruit enveloped with a sultry smokiness that, I confess, kept me coming back for more.  Being a huge fan of Cabernet Franc, I am always on the lookout for this varietal.

Look out Napa, here comes Paso Robles!

Cheers,

Agi

Reconnaissance with Enotria

Aglianico - red grape of the South

We’re heading south to “Enotria”, or Southern Italy, as it was known by the Greeks, to savor its wines at Dante Pizzeria Napoletana next Sunday afternoon.We’ll start with a white wine made from an ancient varietal called Falanghina. Cantina del Taburno, the producer, is situated north of Naples, in Campania. It is possible this grape was the basis for the Roman wine, Falernum.  Though the Cantina is a co-op, care is taken in making its broad range of wines including hand-harvesting and the minimum use of sulphur. Next, we move on to a unique red sparkler, Grotta del Sole’s 2009 Gragnano, a DOC from Campania made from Aglianico and other indigenous grapes.  This has been a favorite with pizza lovers and a long tradition with the Napoletani.

Following the Gragnano, we will taste a traditional Puglian red, the Leone de Castris’ 2005 Salice Salentino Rosso. A blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia, it is an easy drinking red.

There will be a fifth wine,  a sweet surprise to conclude the event…….

All tickets are $30.00 (no refunds)

Make your Reservations via Event Brite >

See you there!

Cheers,

Agi

Tre Bicchieri – The Best in Italian Wines

Union Station in Chicago

Every year for the last 24 years Gambero Rosso, the premier Italian guide to the country’s best wines, has been profiling and evaluating wines.  The result is  the much coveted Tre Bicchieri, or “Three Glasses” award, the highest level of appreciation that can be bestowed on a wine.  This year Gambero Rosso hosted tastings throughout the country, and I was fortunate enough to be able to attend the event in Chicago.

I think I’ll start with my favorite surprise red, Agricola Punica’s 2007 Barrua, a Sardinian wine which received the 3-glass award.  The blend is 85% Carignano, 15% Cabernet. The winemaker, Sebastiano Rosa, also manages Tenuta San Guido.  A very intense ruby color, the aromas were dominated by dark fruit, minerality, velvety tannins and good acidity.  The wine regions of Sardinia and Sicily have been awarded 11 and 15 3-glass awards, respectively.  This is an encouraging sign that quality is on the rise and winemakers are lowering their yields and picking fruit that retains more of that all important acidity.  Speaking of Tenuta San Guido, I also tasted the ‘07 Sassicaia and ‘08 Guidalberto.  The latter’s tannins are still quite firm; the wine needs more time.  The Sassicaia was smooth and elegant but a little disappointing as I hoped for a bit more complexity.

During my discussion with the representative from Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, I was able to learn about the traditional casks of Ital, the  Botti. Italians have used all manner of cask size to ferment and age their wines, especially large ones.  Botti up to 1,000 litres are referred to as “Picola” Botti, 2-3,000l are simply Botti.  Those casks at the larger end of the scale (up to 5,000l) are made in Italy from imported oak.  While I listened, I was also sipping the ‘05 Barolo Liste, a very traditional style not made for early drinking.  It was elegant with dried fruits and still plenty of firm tannins which will be much more approachable in the next 5 years. This is a great one to buy and lay down in your cellar.  By the way, this wine was aged in a 14,000 litre Botti!

Pio Cesare’s single vineyard ‘06 Barolo Ornato was more forceful and assertive than the Liste with more cigar box aromas and flavors, lean tannins.  Another one which will taste better in 5 years.  Other notable Barolos were Michele Chiarlo’s ‘06 Barolo Cannubi and Fontafredda’s ‘04 Barolo Casa E. di Mirafiore Riserva, racked three times and unfiltered.

La Spinetta’s ‘07 Barbaresco Vign. Starderi was just delicious with its wonderful dried cherries and cinnamon spice on the palate. ‘07 was a great vintage for this region.  The rhino on the label was inspired by Albrecht Durer.  A keeper.

At Antinori’s table I tasted the ‘07 Solaia. very much the Bordeaux blend with its dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon.  In general, I found the reds from 2007 to be very extracted, rich, full-bodied with well-ripened fruit, many with a sweetness to the nose.  The ‘07 Castel del Monte Aglianico Bocca di Lupo is a wine with which I am well-acquainted, very food-friendly and approachable.  My favorite Bordeaux style wine would be Castello del Terriccio’s ‘07 Lupicaia, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, very drinkable.

Sagrantino di Montefalco made a big splash this year.  All the wines I tried were dark and inky with rich fruit. Giampaolo Tabarrini’s ‘04 Colle Alle Macchio was aged for 3 years in oak and 3 years in bottle.  For a grape that is known for being one of the most tannic varieties in the world, no wonder they age it for so long.  As a matter of fact, 29 months is a minimum to attain DOCG status.  Another wine region to watch as it develops.

A number of Amarones were a bit on the sweet side, but two stand out which were more to my liking: First was Tenuta Sant’Antonio’s ‘06 Campo dei Gigli.  It was velvety smooth, elegant, eminently quaffable.  Secondly, Speri’s ‘06 Monte Sant’Urbano was offered instead of the ‘07 as the winemaker considered the warmer vintage to be a better expression of quality. Valpolicella has 10 indigenous varieties that can be used for Amarone with Oseleta and Croatina included in the latter blend.

With all that discussion of the reds, it was the whites that truly surprised.  One outstanding example was Elena Walch’s ‘09 A.A. Gewurztraminer Kastelaz.  This grape variety is known locally as “Tramin” and had a gloriously aromatic nose so characteristic of the Gewurtz.

Planeta had only wine available for tasting, the ‘09 Cometa, made from 100% Fiano, but it was also very appealing with its aromatic floral and peachy aromas.

Another great new wine was the award-winning Fattoria Monticino Rosso’s ‘08 Albana di Romagna Secco Codronchio in Emilia. What aromatics! Foral, lychee. There was a very rich, almost oily mid-palate but wrapped with a refreshing acidity.

In Friuli there was an intriguing blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Picolit (also sound in the Southern Rhone) and Moscato Giallo all found in Livon’s ‘08 Collio Braide Alte.  Beats me how they came up with that blend, but it’s got weight and power.  This is the 7th year in a row it has won this top award.

Finally, in the sparkling wine category, Guido Berlucchi’s non-dosaged wine, his ‘05 Franciacorta Brut Extreme Palazzo Lana was interesting.  From 100% Pinot Noir it was aged for 5-7 years.  But, it was his ‘61 Brut Rose Cuvee, from 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay that was my favorite.

So, if you are looking for something new, give the Italians a try.  They will not disappoint!

Cheers.

An Evening with 1964 Haut-Brion

1964 Haut-Brion

This is how a person gets romanced into the wine business.  Those special moments when you have one of the great wines of the world in a glass, and it’s all yours to savor for as long as you wish.  Before I describe my heavenly experience with the Haut-Brion, I feel obligated to mention the half bottle of Pierre Peters’ Blanc de Blancs Champagne,  a perfect accompaniment to the homemade Gougeres crafted with Gruyere so deftly by my friend, Tom Brown, also recognized as the host of the Paxton Manor Wine Aficionados.

Haut-Brion, one of the original 1st growths included in the 1855 Bordeaux classification, is a testament to the unique minerality which is contained in the soil of the Graves region. The 1964 Haut-Brion was one of the lucky winners of the vintage as it was not kind to all of the wines in the region.  Paired with rack of lamb, roasted potatoes with a touch of rosemary and chanterelle mushrooms, I knew this dining experience would not disappoint.

Decanted just before the meal, the wine’s maturity was evident in its appearance.  Light garnet at the core, amber-brown at the rim, the first aroma that wafted from the glass was that of a well-worn leather saddle.  This was followed by a certain meatiness, a slightly sweet jerky.  As I sipped and pondered, licorice and dried cherry emerged.  On the palate I was reminded of the term ‘seamless integration”, understanding that the tannins, acidity, alcohol and fruit were so entwined, so well married over time that smoothness reigned supreme.  By the second glass a fine, sophisticated perfume filled my nostrils.  Though the first sips brought on strong leather, tobacco notes, by the end, these more pungent aromas gave way to a subtler integration of aromas and flavors.

This wine reminded me why I am in the wine business.  In all honesty, the 1964 Haut-Brion has passed its peak, but it is, nevertheless, a testament to what great terroir and winemaking will offer to a wine lover.

Cheers!

Mama Mia, It’s Sangiovese!

Sangiovese Enthusiasts

Four Sangiovese-based wines provided the theme at Dante Pizzeria Napoletana recently.  From the latin, “Sanguis Jovis” or “Blood of Jove”, Sangiovese has been found to be a key genetic relative of many red varieties in Italy.  According to Gambero Rosso, Italy’s well-regarded yearly publication on Italian wines, over 70 clones of Sangiovese have been identified.  The latest research shows Cilieglio and the obscure Calabrese Montenuovo to be the direct genetic parents of this varietal.  Much to people’s surprise, Sangiovese is not only the grape of Tuscay, the most planted grape in Italy (over 10% of total vine acreage), and is found in the regions of Marche, Umbria, Langhe, Lazio as well as to the south in Sicily.

Sangiovese’s success in Tuscany is partly due to a type of soil known as galestro which is found in Chianti-Classico, a kind of schistous, crumbly rock combining clay and marl.  It also thrives in soils with high concentrations of limestone, but, too much clay, and the quality goes down.

As a varietal, Sangiovese tends to bud early and ripen late; hence, the importance of a long growing season.  The best wines are produced from vines at the 200-500m (600-1600 ft) altitude level.  Above this level and you’ll find producers switching over to Bordeaux varietals for maximum results.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are often blended (up to 20% is allowed) with Sangiovese as it tends to be lighter in color and body than the former.  I Giusti & Zanza’s 2006 Belcore was a perfect example of this style with Sangiovese making up 80% of the blend and Merlot the remaining 20%.  One of the favorites of the afternoon, the Merlot was immediately apparent in the dark ruby color of the wine.  Lush ripe plum, tobacco, and subtle vanilla encircled an enticing aroma of perfumed violets. On the palate, the tannins were fine and velvety, acidity medium with a long finish.  Incidentally, this wine was aged in French oak for eight months with a further 6 months in bottle.  A great example of well-balanced oak and enough acidity for a perfectaccompaniment to food.

An interesting comparison was made between two wines: Donna Laura’s 2007 Ali, an IGT from Tuscany, and Cantina di Montalcino’s 2008 Chianti, a DOCG.  Though both were made from 100% Sangiovese and unoaked, the Ali was rated more highly by almost everyone.  This despite the much higher rating of quality on the Chianti.  How did this happen?  Partly due to the way in which the fruit was treated and the one year of ageing in stainless steel of the Ali.  The aromas were more pronounced, the fruit riper and the acidity more in balance.  Because of Sangiovese’s natural propensity for high acidity, it is especially important to ripen the grapes properly.  Also interesting, the Ali sells retail for about $11 whereas the Chianti for about $20. It just goes to show you that there is no substitute for tasting!

Finally, we bathed in the scents and flavors of Terralsole’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello, also known as Sangiovese

Terralsole

Grosso in Montalcino, is considered the highest quality of all the Sangiovese clones.  Made in a gravity-flow winery, Mario Bollag takes cask ageing very seriously with this wine having seen 8 months in 2.2 hl barrels and 16 months in 5.5 hl sized barrels, not to mention a further 6 months of bottle age.  That is 30 months total and it shows.  Classic garnet in hue the oak influence is evident (but not overbearing) in the aromas of spicy cinnamon, leather, tobacco, licorice and the sour cherry so characteristic of this varietal.  The velvety tannins carried through to the long silky finish.  A pure delight to Dante’s home-made fennel sausage.

There is one bottle of Terralsole’s 2004 Riserva left on the list.  Going back soon………..Cheers!

Burgundy 2009 Barrel Tasting in Chicago

With Vincent Avenel, D. Faiveley

Frederick Wildman & Sons recently held a 2009 Burgundy barrel tasting at the Peninsula Hotel in Chicago.  Though much of the wine has not yet been bottled, it was, nevertheless, interesting to taste the first sips of the vintage.

I was able to speak with several winery representatives, including Vincent Avenel, Faiveley’s Export Director, and he had this to say about the 2009 vintage, “2009 is the pleasure vintage..most of the wines have ripe, not strong tannins…not the same ageing potential as the ‘o5’s, but they are voluptuous and over deliver at their entry”.  He went on to say that it is very likely that ’09s will drink earlier, and it may very well be that 1er Crus will be at their peak when they are between 10-15 years of age, earlier than ’05’s.

Faiveley’s Nuits-Saints-George, 1er Cru “Les Porets St-Georges ” greeted me with the characteristic violet aromas of the region whereas the Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru “La Combe aux Moines” or “Monk’s Valley” softer, smokier aromas beckoned.  As I tasted the Chambertin “Clos de Beze” (which was previously the name of the Abbey at the site), I inquired as to the oak treatment.  The amount of time this wine spent in barrel after fermentation was 14-16 months in French oak, 2/3 in new oak, 1/3 in 1-2 year-old barrels.  Oak is a contributing factor to the structure and adds to the complexity of aromas and flavors of this wine without overpowering it.

At D. Jacques Prieur, Enologist Nadine Gublin agrees with M. Avenel when she says “‘ 2009 is more accessible, round and very smooth…2005 is tighter, bigger, more structured”.  After tasting the Beaune, 1er Cru ‘Champs Pimonts” and the GC Clos de Vougeot, ripe, fruit-forward aromas dominated within a firm structure.  By the way, D. Prieur can toot its horn when exclaiming to the world that it is the only domaine in Burgundy that owns vines in all five GC appellations of Chambertin, Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, Corton

Frederick Wildman Burgundy Tasting

Charlemagne and Montrachet.

Also noteworthy was Chateau Fuisse, the premier white Burgundy producer in the Macon, has just come out with its first sparkling wine.  Cremant de Bourgogne, a Blanc de Blanc,is  a light straw-colored refreshing sparkler.  All I was missing was a few fresh oysters on the half shell.

A glass of Burgundy a day definitely keeps the blues away…

Cheers.

Rediscovering Spanish Wines

 

Dear Friends,

Spain is reinventing itself a very different place from where it was 20 years ago.  Even in Rioja, which has held fast to its traditional winemaking methods, is producing wines a little fruitier with more balanced oak.  Winemakers all over the country are giving a fresh face to many hitherto relatively unknown regions a few years ago.  In that spirit, I have selected 4 wines embracing both traditional and modern styles for our next tasting.

From the Ribera del Duero we will taste Moro’s 2006 Tempranillo.  Close to the Mediterranean is the wine region of Priorat and the home of Melis 2005 Elix, a Garnacha blend.  Going east to Jumilla, the third red will be Bodegas Oliveras, 2008 Altos de la Hoja, a Monastrell.

Our fourth wine will be a surprise.  You will have to come to find out! Join us Wednesday, February 16, from 6-8 pm. at the Boiler Room in Omaha.Pages

See you there!  – Agi

Barbera – Belle of the Ball

Barbera, one of the most planted red grape varieties in Italy was the theme for yesterday’s tasting at Dante. Vinchio Vaglio’s 2007 Kroara was first.  A great everyday drinking wine, it was fermented in stainless steel without cask aging. This is your basic Barbera with the Piedmont appellation signifying that the grapes came from various growers throughout the region.  Light ruby in color bright red cherries dominated the aromas. Since Barbera is a grape characterized by low tannins but high acidity, it is appealing to many with its often smooth, soft mouthfeel and ability to match well with food.

We moved on to Stefano Farina’s 2008  Barbera d’Alba  DOC. The grapes sourced from this wine were grown on the slopes of Alba close to the Tanaro River.  Stefano Sr. started the winery in the 30’s in Langhe and the facility has been modernized to include a gravity-driven cap collapsing fermentation tank which aids in avoiding bitter tannins. The winemaker’s objective was to preserve the fresh fruit flavors in this wine and hence, refrained from cask aging. Sightly more intense in its purple/ruby hue than its predecessor, dark-skinned berry fruit characterized the aromas and the acidity was pronounced which was a detracting element for a few, but paired with some prosciutto became amicable.

With Vietti’s 2007 Barbera d’Asti, Tre Vigne we began to see the terroir expressed, in part, to the calcerous and clay loam soils. Again, the appearance of this Barbera had a purple/ruby hue, but deeper in color.  Having gone through malolactic fermentation a soft, round mouthfeel made for a velvety mid-palate. This was coupled with aromas of creamy cherry, red raspberry and vanilla arising from the twelve months of oak aging in French and Slavonian barrels. Though the oak was evident, all agreed that this was a wonderfully balanced wine which was, incidentally, unfiltered.

Finally, for the piece de resistance we returned to Vinchio-Vaglio Serra and tasted their 2006 Sei Vigne Insynthesis,  comprising a blend of grapes from six different vineyards, hence “Six Vineyard Synthesis”. This wine produced much discussion because of the complexity of aromas and flavors:  blackberry, cassis, licorice, tobacco, leather.  Aging in small French casks made its mark with the pervasive spiciness evident on both the nose and palate.  A wine of great structure, balance with a long, lingering velvety finish.  Also, winner of Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri, the highest honor a wine can receive in Italy.

Our next tasting at Dante will be Sunday, February 13th at 3:30pm when we’ll be tasting Sangiovese-based reds!

Until then, Cheers!

Much Ado About Riesling

Another great tasting at the Boiler Room.  The theme was Riesling, a grape variety considered by some to be the greatest of all grapes due to its capacity to develop complexity in aromas and flavors after extended aging..   We started with Bründlmayer’s 2008 Riesling Steinmasel, an Austrian Riesling with classic notes of citrus, peach, dried apricots and a racy acidity which matched well with the Russet Potato Rösti.

Next was J.J. Christoffel Erben’s 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten, a Kabinett from Germany. Well liked by all, this off-dry Riesling revealed aromatic white gardenia and acacia flowers, lychees and that characteristic petrol aroma so distinctive of this variety.  Paired with this was a delicious steamed Chieftain Apple and Ricotta Knödel. It just gets better!

To better get an idea between a Kabinett and Spatlese style from the Mosel, I next chose Dr. F. Wein-Prüm’s 2005 Graacher Domprobst, Riesling Spatlese Feinherb. Spatlese or “late harvest” identifies the grapes as having been picked later than those for Kabinett thereby achieving a rounder, fuller style of wine.  Drier than its counterpart, the richer mid-palate was evident and  matched perfectly with the Chicken Liver Mousse with Celeriac Espuma.  This was the pairing of the evening!

Last but not least a Riesling from Alsace, France, from one of my all-time favorite producers, Zind-Humbrecht, his 2008 Riesling. Having the highest level of alcohol at 12.5% of all the wines, Rieslings in Alsace are found in more calcerous soils than Germany with it predominance of slate. More subtle in aroma than the German counterparts, there was an earthier mineral component and a refreshing acidity that went well with the fried Squash Pazetelli and Crisp Pork Belly dish.

One very generous guest, Mr. Tom  Brown, a Riesling enthusiast, brought a bottle of 1971 Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium Ockfener Geisberg Auslese for his dinner and gave me the honor of tasting it.  A golden amber liquid with a fair amount of weight with an initial aroma of band-aid which wafted away to real caramel and toffee aromas.  Thank you, Tom!

And so, our Riesling tasting comes to an end.  Our next tasting will be Wednesday, February 9th at 6pm when we will enjoy Spanish reds.

Cheers!

Agi

 

A Tasting of Importer Martine’s Rhônes

Out of all the wine tastings I have attended, the best ones have always been those at which I have had time to swirl and savor each sip. Such is the case with a recent tasting of importer Martine’s selection of Rhônes.

To start, I was offered an aperitif that I haven’t had the pleasure of tasting for quite some time, Gaston Riviѐre’s Pineau François 1er. This is a Pineau des Charentes, or Vin de Liqueur, a strong, sweet style of wine that is made from brandy and grape juice (must) in the Cognac region of France.  Produced by the fantastically un-inspiring Colombard grape which, when fermented, would make your mouth pucker and your eyes cross with its marked acidity, but when distilled into Cognac will invite you back for years to come.

Next came two Rhônes from producer Ch âteau des Tours. Though 2006 was not considered to be an outstanding vintage, this Côtes du Rhône Blanc will pleasantly persuade.  A brilliant, star bright golden hue with minerally and honeycomb aromas, a bit of citrus and a smooth, dense mid-palate.  Grenache blanc is a grape which naturally contains modest acidity, but there is enough of it in this wine to carry through the creaminess and viscosity initially apparent on the palate to a refreshing finish.

Turning to the reds, the 2004 Vacqueyras, a blend of 80% Grenache Noir and 20% Syrah produced a wine considered to represent the classic vintage from which it came. As with the white, a minerality is evident in the aromas and flavors along with a touch of graphite in this ruby-colored wine.  Very approachable, medium-bodied, another great food wine.

My favorite of the reds was Féraud-Brunel’s, 2007 Côtes du Rhône. A blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault (a traditional blend in this region) the style was inspired by Philippe Cambie, a terroir-driven winemaker/consultant who has made a name for himself in Southern France.  As with many winemakers in the Southern Rhône, imparting oak flavor does not play a major role in wine production, and this wine was no exception.  Fermented and aged in ceramic tile lined vats for ten months, dark ripe blackberry and black current fruit dominated the aromas. It was then I had one of those “ah-ha” moments when a meatiness wafted into my nostrils.  Originally mistaking this as a sign of oak, I realized that this aroma was inherent in the Syrah grape itself and was manifesting itself even as a minority component in the wine’s blend. This meatiness is often found in Rhônes, especially in the North.  It would seem that M. Cambie had achieved his purpose in making a wine which is an expression of the grapes and the terroir in which it was grown.

Finally, a luscious finish with Tour des Farges’ 2005 Vin Doux Naturel, a sweet wine from a tiny appellation called Muscat de Lunel, also a name of a very aromatic grape.  Amber in color, its butterscotch and candid orange peel aromas coupled with an underlying acidity was a perfect finish to the tasting.

Cheers, and let us not forget that a great wine begins in the vineyard!