Appreciating Italy’s Tirolian Gold

Endrizzi’s Teroldegos

When I heard about the Simply Italian US Wine Tour, I geared up for tasting the many interesting indigenous varietals.  Alas, while  there were quite a few varietal wines, many were the ubiquitous cabernet sauvignon and pinot grigio.  While perusing the tables, a friend happened to mention that way in the back corner of the room was a wonderful little wine from the Teroldego grape.  Having made  wine from this grape gathered from research plots in Mendocino County during my stint as a Viticulture Research Assistant, I weaved my way through the throngs with outstretched wine glass.

Teroldego (ter-OHL-de-go) is a red grape variety from the Trentino-Alto-Adige region. The name derives from a system of wire trellises known as “tirelle” which is a much less romantic, but more plausible explanation for its origin than “Tiroler”, or “gold of Tirol”, as it was known.

A uniquely Italian varietal, thanks to DNA research, we now know that it is related to Syrah.  Perhaps that would explain, in part, the rich ruby often purple-hued color of its wines.  When young, Teroldego exhibits a lively, fruity character with approachable tannins and a refreshing acidity.  Add a little oak and you have complemented the rich black fruits of blackberry and black cherry with attractive spices.

All of these characteristics were evident as I tasted my way through the three wines from producer Endrizzi, a winery celebrating its 125th anniversary in a region that proudly displays its region’s appellation on the labels.  The Teroldego Rotaliano DOC Tradizione delighted my senses with its immediately appealing fruity aromas of ripe raspberries and blackberries and a fresh spiciness.  Fifty percent of the wine was aged in 7,000-8,000-liter casks called Boti.  Forty-year old vines went into the Teroldego Rotaliano DOC Riserva which were planted at 600 m (1,800 ft).  Aged for one year in 2-3 year-old barriques, the wine’s appearance displayed a deep ruby color.  The fruit aromas of plum and blackberry were enticingly intertwined with a spiciness that added to its complexity. Flavorful, mouthwatering with rounded tannins, I could eat this with my osso bucco!

Finally, the Gran Masetto, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT.  Similar to an Amarone, grapes used in this wine were dried for 1-2 months; specifically, the top third of the bunches were used in the drying process while the bottom third were vinified as usual.  The remaining portion was late harvested.  Noticeably more extracted than her siblings, the Gran Massetto’s aromas had the distinctive sweet raisin quality along with spicy cherries.  Again, smooth and attractive tannins, medium + acidity, well-balanced.  This is what I love about the quality-minded producers, the presence but balanced approach to oak.  In this case, 2-3 year-old, lightly-toasted barrels from Alliers.

Perfecto!

Make Way for Sake

Chicago welcomed several Japanese organizations which hosted a Sake tasting and pairing event.  Two consummate professionals spearheaded the lively seminar, John Gauntner, the world’s leading non-Japanese sake expert also known as Sake Dendhoshi or “The Sake Evangelist” and Takashi Yagihashi, Owner/Chef of his recently awarded one star restaurant, Takashi Restaurant.

While Chef Takashi prepared a delicious Sashimi of Hamachi with Prosciutto & Buffalo Mozzarella,  a lively discussion ensued.

Sake, while incorporating some elements of beer as well as wine making, is, nevertheless, a unique beverage in a class all by itself.  There are few westerners who truly understand this refined drink, but the interest was clear from the well attended event by industry professionals.

Here are some of the basics you might be interested in knowing:

Sake has been around in some form for the last 2000 years with the premium “ginjo” style for only about 40.  It is brewed, not distilled or simply fermented, from only rice. Other elements included in the production process include water and koji (moldy rice).

Sake quality is divided into several categories known as grades, and the key to understanding this official pecking order is the milling or “polishing” of the rice itself.  In general, the more the rice has been polished, the cleaner, lighter and more fragrant the flavor.  Quality sakes will be milled anywhere from 30-50%.  Some of the “garagistes” producers will  polish away even more.

with John Gauntner

It is interesting to note that whereas wine producers will sometimes add pure alcohol to “beef” up their wines, but are hush-hush when it comes to informing the public, an entire class of premium sakes, Daiginjo-shu, Ginjo-shu and Honjozo-shu, are brewed with small amounts of distilled alcohol.  This is openly acknowledged and viewed by sake professionals as producing a lighter, more fragrant, and hence, high quality product.

Throughout the ages, endless stories and verses tout the amazing ability of wine to age and become an icon of aroma and taste.  Compare that to sake, which, with the exception of very few cases, is meant to be drunk young within a few years.  When drinking premium sake should be drunk slightly chilled though warm sakes becoming popular once again (usually with the more cheap and cheerful versions).

The good news is sake is one of those few items that are almost always priced fairly.  Paying a premium is worth it.  Traditionally, bottle size is 720 ml, slightly less that a bottle of wine.  But, if you are with your friends, the proper way to be social is to order that 1.8L bottle so there is some for everyone around the table (more than once).

I have been privileged to take John’s first level certification course, and for those who are interested, it is worth it.

Kampai!

Killer Cava from Spain

Marques de Gelida Tasting at The Purple Pig in Chicago

Marques de Gelida from Spain was the focus of a trade tasting at the Purple Pig in Chicago yesterday.  Maite (short for Marie-Theresa) Esteve I Julia, the owner, poured several of her sparkling wines starting off with her 2008 Kila Cava, made from the three traditional varieties: Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Paralleda.  A tasty, refreshing entry wine with a minimum of 12 months ageing, produced from 20 year-old vines. The 2006 Brut Exclusive included 20% Chardonnay in the blend in addition to the local varieties, hand harvested from 40-50 year-old vines and spent 5 years slumbering in bottle before being disgorged and released.   Time’s indelible influence manifested itself on the personality of this as well as the 2007 Brut Exclusive.  Not only did the wines have more color, but also more evidence of secondary aromas including mushrooms, and sweet biscuit. Still fresh and youthful, there was an attractive minerality which became more pronounced with the 2007 vintage.  With only 13,000 bottles made, you’ll want to get your hands on some of these!

My winemaking lesson for the day was from Maite who explained that fermentation temperatures directly affect the size of the bubbles produced.  The lower the temperature, the slower the fermentation and the smaller and finer the bubbles.  The converse is true: the warmer the temperature, fermentation will speed up thereby causing larger bubbles to be produced.  This noted when tasting the mousse on the palate.  As with all good sparkling wine, especially those made in the traditional method with the second fermentation in bottle, it is the goal of every winemaker to make the bubbles as fine as possible.  After all, sparkling wine tasting is all about the texture.

Also interesting was the 2007 Brut Rose made exclusively from a few precious hectares of Pinot Noir.  Dark salmon in color, the nose was on the restrained side, but offered up subtle strawberries a mouth-filling mid-palate and a clean finish.  Plus, it went wonderfully with the tapas-style dishes we were served including Sepia (cuttlefish) with roasted almonds and rosemary and beets with whipped goat cheese and pistachios.  My mouth is watering all over again…..

Let’s hear it for Cava!

Paso Robles: Making its Way East

w/Stacie Jacobs, Exec. Dir. Paso Robles Wine Alliance

The wine trade was invited  to attend Paso Robles’ Grand Tasting event yesterday at the Gallery in Chicago.  For those of you not familiar with the latest facts, allow me to update you.  The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance is the marketing and promotional arm of the wine region, boasts 500 members which include growers, wineries, and related associate businesses. The economic impact of Pasao Robles and the Greater San Luis Obispo Wine region is calculated at $1,785 billion!

As California’s fastest growing wine region and largest appellation in San Luis Obispo County, the territory encompasses more than 26,000 vineyard acres and more than 180 wineries.  More than 40 cultivars are grown and the regions claims to have the widest ranging diurnal temperatures in California which translates to optimal growing conditions for vines and the resultant fruit.  Part of this is due to the proximity of some vineyards to the ocean (6 miles in some cases). Just passed the Santa Lucia mountain range,  there is fog which blankets certain areas, but it is not as dense and dissipates much earlier in the day than its neighbors to the north.  Elevations of vineyards range from 700-2,000 feet and due to its unique geological makeup, 45 different soil types have been identified several of which may be found in one vineyard block.  Bedrock primarily derived from weathered granite, older marine sedimentary rocks, and volcanic rocks trace back to the Miocene Age.  Calcareous soils with high soil pH values make some vineyards possible without irrigation.

If you’re in the mood for Bordeaux, Rhone and Zinfandel blends, then Paso wines are a must.  Less attention has been given to the whites, but I was pleasantly surprised by some innovative blends.  Among them was the 2009 Vina Robles WHITE4, Huerhuero Vineyard, a blend of 42% Vermentino, 29% Verdelho, 26% Viognier and 3% Sauvignon Blanc; veritable Spring in a glass.  The delicate white flower aromas from the Viognier were surrounded by the strength of Sauvignon Blanc; a wonderful aromatic, fresh wine with good acid.  The 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Niner Wine Estates (2009) was another pleasurable experience with its refreshing peach and grapefruit aromas, and I especially liked the smooth lushness of its mid-palate.

Joseph Spellman MS, Justin's Midwest Regional Sales Manager

Derby Wine Estates, a winery unknown to me before this tasting, produced some very interesting wines including its 2007 Fifteen 10, a white Rhone blend which was very clean with subtle aromas of white pepper, gardenia and a tangy lemon zest on the finish.  Also noteworthy was the 2006 Fifteen 10, a red Rhone blend and the 2006 Implico, their Bordeaux blend which was fruit forward but well-balanced.

Other wines of note included Stanger Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, a fleshy wine dominated by dark fruit aromas and flavors, and my favorite of the day was Justin Vineyards’ 2008 JUSTIFICATION, a blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot.  A wine with 14.5% alcohol, it was blessed with a rich ruby color, rich dark fruit enveloped with a sultry smokiness that, I confess, kept me coming back for more.  Being a huge fan of Cabernet Franc, I am always on the lookout for this varietal.

Look out Napa, here comes Paso Robles!

Cheers,

Agi

Reconnaissance with Enotria

Aglianico - red grape of the South

We’re heading south to “Enotria”, or Southern Italy, as it was known by the Greeks, to savor its wines at Dante Pizzeria Napoletana next Sunday afternoon.We’ll start with a white wine made from an ancient varietal called Falanghina. Cantina del Taburno, the producer, is situated north of Naples, in Campania. It is possible this grape was the basis for the Roman wine, Falernum.  Though the Cantina is a co-op, care is taken in making its broad range of wines including hand-harvesting and the minimum use of sulphur. Next, we move on to a unique red sparkler, Grotta del Sole’s 2009 Gragnano, a DOC from Campania made from Aglianico and other indigenous grapes.  This has been a favorite with pizza lovers and a long tradition with the Napoletani.

Following the Gragnano, we will taste a traditional Puglian red, the Leone de Castris’ 2005 Salice Salentino Rosso. A blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia, it is an easy drinking red.

There will be a fifth wine,  a sweet surprise to conclude the event…….

All tickets are $30.00 (no refunds)

Make your Reservations via Event Brite >

See you there!

Cheers,

Agi

Tre Bicchieri – The Best in Italian Wines

Union Station in Chicago

Every year for the last 24 years Gambero Rosso, the premier Italian guide to the country’s best wines, has been profiling and evaluating wines.  The result is  the much coveted Tre Bicchieri, or “Three Glasses” award, the highest level of appreciation that can be bestowed on a wine.  This year Gambero Rosso hosted tastings throughout the country, and I was fortunate enough to be able to attend the event in Chicago.

I think I’ll start with my favorite surprise red, Agricola Punica’s 2007 Barrua, a Sardinian wine which received the 3-glass award.  The blend is 85% Carignano, 15% Cabernet. The winemaker, Sebastiano Rosa, also manages Tenuta San Guido.  A very intense ruby color, the aromas were dominated by dark fruit, minerality, velvety tannins and good acidity.  The wine regions of Sardinia and Sicily have been awarded 11 and 15 3-glass awards, respectively.  This is an encouraging sign that quality is on the rise and winemakers are lowering their yields and picking fruit that retains more of that all important acidity.  Speaking of Tenuta San Guido, I also tasted the ‘07 Sassicaia and ‘08 Guidalberto.  The latter’s tannins are still quite firm; the wine needs more time.  The Sassicaia was smooth and elegant but a little disappointing as I hoped for a bit more complexity.

During my discussion with the representative from Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, I was able to learn about the traditional casks of Ital, the  Botti. Italians have used all manner of cask size to ferment and age their wines, especially large ones.  Botti up to 1,000 litres are referred to as “Picola” Botti, 2-3,000l are simply Botti.  Those casks at the larger end of the scale (up to 5,000l) are made in Italy from imported oak.  While I listened, I was also sipping the ‘05 Barolo Liste, a very traditional style not made for early drinking.  It was elegant with dried fruits and still plenty of firm tannins which will be much more approachable in the next 5 years. This is a great one to buy and lay down in your cellar.  By the way, this wine was aged in a 14,000 litre Botti!

Pio Cesare’s single vineyard ‘06 Barolo Ornato was more forceful and assertive than the Liste with more cigar box aromas and flavors, lean tannins.  Another one which will taste better in 5 years.  Other notable Barolos were Michele Chiarlo’s ‘06 Barolo Cannubi and Fontafredda’s ‘04 Barolo Casa E. di Mirafiore Riserva, racked three times and unfiltered.

La Spinetta’s ‘07 Barbaresco Vign. Starderi was just delicious with its wonderful dried cherries and cinnamon spice on the palate. ‘07 was a great vintage for this region.  The rhino on the label was inspired by Albrecht Durer.  A keeper.

At Antinori’s table I tasted the ‘07 Solaia. very much the Bordeaux blend with its dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon.  In general, I found the reds from 2007 to be very extracted, rich, full-bodied with well-ripened fruit, many with a sweetness to the nose.  The ‘07 Castel del Monte Aglianico Bocca di Lupo is a wine with which I am well-acquainted, very food-friendly and approachable.  My favorite Bordeaux style wine would be Castello del Terriccio’s ‘07 Lupicaia, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, very drinkable.

Sagrantino di Montefalco made a big splash this year.  All the wines I tried were dark and inky with rich fruit. Giampaolo Tabarrini’s ‘04 Colle Alle Macchio was aged for 3 years in oak and 3 years in bottle.  For a grape that is known for being one of the most tannic varieties in the world, no wonder they age it for so long.  As a matter of fact, 29 months is a minimum to attain DOCG status.  Another wine region to watch as it develops.

A number of Amarones were a bit on the sweet side, but two stand out which were more to my liking: First was Tenuta Sant’Antonio’s ‘06 Campo dei Gigli.  It was velvety smooth, elegant, eminently quaffable.  Secondly, Speri’s ‘06 Monte Sant’Urbano was offered instead of the ‘07 as the winemaker considered the warmer vintage to be a better expression of quality. Valpolicella has 10 indigenous varieties that can be used for Amarone with Oseleta and Croatina included in the latter blend.

With all that discussion of the reds, it was the whites that truly surprised.  One outstanding example was Elena Walch’s ‘09 A.A. Gewurztraminer Kastelaz.  This grape variety is known locally as “Tramin” and had a gloriously aromatic nose so characteristic of the Gewurtz.

Planeta had only wine available for tasting, the ‘09 Cometa, made from 100% Fiano, but it was also very appealing with its aromatic floral and peachy aromas.

Another great new wine was the award-winning Fattoria Monticino Rosso’s ‘08 Albana di Romagna Secco Codronchio in Emilia. What aromatics! Foral, lychee. There was a very rich, almost oily mid-palate but wrapped with a refreshing acidity.

In Friuli there was an intriguing blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Picolit (also sound in the Southern Rhone) and Moscato Giallo all found in Livon’s ‘08 Collio Braide Alte.  Beats me how they came up with that blend, but it’s got weight and power.  This is the 7th year in a row it has won this top award.

Finally, in the sparkling wine category, Guido Berlucchi’s non-dosaged wine, his ‘05 Franciacorta Brut Extreme Palazzo Lana was interesting.  From 100% Pinot Noir it was aged for 5-7 years.  But, it was his ‘61 Brut Rose Cuvee, from 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay that was my favorite.

So, if you are looking for something new, give the Italians a try.  They will not disappoint!

Cheers.

An Evening with 1964 Haut-Brion

1964 Haut-Brion

This is how a person gets romanced into the wine business.  Those special moments when you have one of the great wines of the world in a glass, and it’s all yours to savor for as long as you wish.  Before I describe my heavenly experience with the Haut-Brion, I feel obligated to mention the half bottle of Pierre Peters’ Blanc de Blancs Champagne,  a perfect accompaniment to the homemade Gougeres crafted with Gruyere so deftly by my friend, Tom Brown, also recognized as the host of the Paxton Manor Wine Aficionados.

Haut-Brion, one of the original 1st growths included in the 1855 Bordeaux classification, is a testament to the unique minerality which is contained in the soil of the Graves region. The 1964 Haut-Brion was one of the lucky winners of the vintage as it was not kind to all of the wines in the region.  Paired with rack of lamb, roasted potatoes with a touch of rosemary and chanterelle mushrooms, I knew this dining experience would not disappoint.

Decanted just before the meal, the wine’s maturity was evident in its appearance.  Light garnet at the core, amber-brown at the rim, the first aroma that wafted from the glass was that of a well-worn leather saddle.  This was followed by a certain meatiness, a slightly sweet jerky.  As I sipped and pondered, licorice and dried cherry emerged.  On the palate I was reminded of the term ‘seamless integration”, understanding that the tannins, acidity, alcohol and fruit were so entwined, so well married over time that smoothness reigned supreme.  By the second glass a fine, sophisticated perfume filled my nostrils.  Though the first sips brought on strong leather, tobacco notes, by the end, these more pungent aromas gave way to a subtler integration of aromas and flavors.

This wine reminded me why I am in the wine business.  In all honesty, the 1964 Haut-Brion has passed its peak, but it is, nevertheless, a testament to what great terroir and winemaking will offer to a wine lover.

Cheers!